Interview with Cristina Castañer, Designer and Owner of Castañer

What makes the perfect shoe?
The perfect shoe depends on the occasion. For one moment, the perfect pair might be very feminine, high, with a heel and a touch of sensuality, but for another, the perfect one is super comfortable, always well-made, with a hint of fashion built in.

What makes your shoes special?
It’s the result of many things, a long family tradition, having been born among shoes, and a deep passion for them. Staying informed, traveling a lot, talking to people in the fashion world, and above all, being honest with what we do. When you make a shoe, the first thing is to know the craft, having good lasts, the best materials, the finest dyes, and in the end, the combination of all these elements results in a truly special shoe.

How do you see the current state of the footwear industry in Spain?
The footwear industry in Spain is relatively healthy compared to others, because it has strong traditions, a large export market, and works both for other brands and its own. The sector is undergoing a major shift, as traditional multi-brand shoe stores used to be the main clients for Spanish manufacturers, but now the trend is moving toward developing their own branded footwear.

Castañer shoes are deeply Mediterranean. How do you open up to other markets?
It’s the result of many years of work. We’ve gone global by being original, creative, using quality materials, being honest with what we do, incorporating fashion, and slowly building loyal customers. Over time, you end up selling in the best boutiques around the world, learning to navigate challenges along the way.

Was there a before and after for Castañer following Yves Saint Laurent’s request to create a shoe for his show?
Absolutely. Before that, it was my grandfather’s factory, which didn’t involve any creative work, just basic, practical shoes. The first step was taken by my father, who started attending trade fairs, and that’s where he met Saint Laurent. From that moment, we began exporting, though the shoes were still basic. The Nordic countries used them as indoor shoes because the jute we use is eco-friendly and an excellent thermal insulator. But it was Saint Laurent who gave us the idea of adding a wedge heel, and we included it in our collections. If we had patented it then, we would be millionaires today, because everyone has copied it.

What does luxury mean to you?
Well-made things, with quality, care, and attention to detail.

What kind of shoes do you like to wear?
It depends on the occasion, but ninety percent of the time I wear Castañer shoes, because I love them, because I make them, and because they work for every situation.

What are the shoe trends for 2016?
It’s a continuation of the brand’s essence, but we always innovate. This year, for example, I’m launching a collection of espadrilles handcrafted by 80-year-old artisans who sew like no one else does anymore, and I’ll add the touch of hand-painted details by an artist friend of mine. They’ll be like a double work of art, on one hand the work of a young painter, and on the other, the craftsmanship of women whose skills have no successors because younger generations no longer sew like they do.

We know you’re passionate about art. Which artist or artistic period do you identify with?
I love contemporary art. I personally collect works by artists mostly from my generation, although I occasionally make exceptions. I usually buy works by living artists, from classic canvases to sculptures, photographs, video art, ceramics, and wood. My collection is very eclectic.

What is your favorite place in the world?
A city that fascinates me is Bangkok. New York has an energy I adore. But I can also go to Calanda, in Teruel, where my grandfather was from, and be the happiest woman in the world, because it’s a luxury to find a place with no tourists, where everything is so authentic.

Do these places inspire you?
Yes, all of this shapes your character and your taste. I’m much more inspired by a landscape than by a fashion magazine. I read them to know the trends, but they’re more informative than inspiring. I like to create trends, not follow them. I find inspiration in life, in a landscape, a city, a scent, or in people.

Are Castañer shoes timeless?
Completely. We keep creating because we’re very creative and, as a business, the industry demands it. But there are espadrilles from ten, fifteen, even twenty years ago that are still current. One of our stores’ defining features, especially in summer, is the explosion of color. You can walk out wearing yellow, orange, electric blue, or bright green shoes, and that’s the fun part, adding a touch of joy to your feet.

Are shoes one of the accessories that most define a look?
Probably yes, even more so than a handbag.

When you meet someone, are their shoes the first thing you notice?
No, but I end up looking at them for sure. First, I look into their eyes, talk, and get to know the person, but in the end, I always look at their feet.

Do shoes reveal something about people?
Not exactly. I don’t judge anyone by their shoes. When I meet someone, what interests me most isn’t their footwear, but shoes always say something about a person’s personality. They don’t tell me if someone is kind or will become a good friend, but they do reveal a lot, whether the person keeps up with trends, likes fashion, invests in good shoes, prefers comfort or sex appeal, or works in an office. For me, shoes say a lot about a person, even about their mood.